Quick Checks Before You Call
A few checks can save a service call. Make sure the remote is set to heat, not cool, dry or auto, and that its batteries are good. Check the breaker for the heat pump in the panel and the outdoor disconnect switch beside the unit. Rinse the filters if they are dusty. Look at the outdoor unit and clear any snow or ice from around and on top of it. If the head is blinking, count the flashes or note the code on the display, because it points to the cause. Then switch the unit off at the breaker for a few minutes and turn it back on. If it still is not right, call and read us the code.
Why Is My Heat Pump Blowing Cold Air?
A heat pump that blows cool air in winter is often in its defrost cycle, which is normal and lasts a few minutes. If the cold air goes on for longer than that, the cause is usually a dirty coil, a low refrigerant charge, a failed sensor or an outdoor unit buried in snow or ice.
Check that the remote is set to heat and not to auto or cool, and that the filters are clean. If it still blows cold, call us and read us the error code if one is showing.
Why Is Water Dripping From The Indoor Head?
Water dripping from an indoor head almost always means the drain line is blocked or the head is not level. Dust and slime build up in the drain pan and the small hose that carries water outside.
We clear the drain, check the slope of the line and make sure it is not frozen where it leaves the house. A heat pump cleaning every year keeps the drain from clogging again.
Why Is The Outdoor Unit Covered In Ice?
A thin layer of frost on the outdoor coil is normal in damp winter weather, and the heat pump melts it off in its defrost cycle. A thick block of ice is not normal.
Heavy ice usually means the defrost water has nowhere to drain, the unit sits too low in the snow, or roof water is dripping onto it. Raising the unit on a taller stand or moving the drip line usually solves it for good.
Strange Noises, Short Cycling And Smells
Some sounds are normal: a whoosh and a burst of steam during defrost, a click as the valves switch, a low hum from the outdoor unit. Others are not. Grinding or screeching usually points to a fan motor or bearing. Rattling can be a loose panel or something caught in the fan. A unit that turns on and off every few minutes, called short cycling, can be a sensor, a refrigerant problem or a system that is too big for the room. A burning or electrical smell means switch it off at the breaker and call. A musty smell is usually mould on the blower wheel, which a full cleaning fixes.
Refrigerant Leaks And Low Charge
A heat pump is a sealed system. If it is low on refrigerant, it has a leak somewhere. Signs include weak heat, ice forming on the indoor coil or on one of the copper lines outside, and error codes that point to pressure. Topping up the charge without finding the leak only buys time. The right repair is to find the leak, fix it, pressure test and vacuum the system, and then charge it to the maker's specification. Leaks are most common at the flare fittings where the copper lines meet the units, and on outdoor coils damaged by salt air. Refrigerant work must be done by a certified technician.
Heat Pump Diagnostic Fee
A repair visit starts with a $199 diagnostic, before HST. That covers the technician coming out, reading the error codes, checking the airflow, the electrical connections and the refrigerant pressures, and finding out what is wrong. You then get a plain explanation and a price for the fix. Parts and refrigerant are priced separately, and nothing is ordered or replaced until you agree to the price. Having the brand, the model and any error code ready when you call helps the technician bring the right parts. If the part is on hand, the fix may be done on the same visit.
What Happens During A Heat Pump Repair Visit?
The technician checks the error codes, the airflow, the electrical connections and the refrigerant pressures with gauges. You get a plain explanation of what failed and a price for the fix before any part is ordered.
If a part has to be ordered, we tell you how long it will take and suggest the best backup heat in the meantime.
Brands We Repair
We repair most brands of ductless and ducted heat pumps found in Cape Breton homes, whoever installed them. Some brands use parts that have to be ordered from a distributor, so knowing the model before the visit saves a second trip. When you call, give us the brand and model from the sticker on the side of the indoor head or the outdoor unit, so the right parts and tools come on the first visit.
When Is It Better To Replace A Heat Pump?
Replacing a heat pump makes more sense than repairing it when the unit is near the end of its life, uses an older refrigerant, or needs a compressor. We give you both prices so you can decide.
Repair Or Replace: How Rebates Change The Answer
Rebates do not cover every replacement. Under the June 2026 Efficiency Nova Scotia guide, the Home Energy Assessment and Moderate Income rebates only pay on newly added capacity. A heat pump that replaces an existing one, working or not, does not qualify, though adding heads or a bigger unit may earn rebate on the extra tons. The new federal National Heat Pump Rebate was announced partly with failed heating systems in mind, but its full rules are not out until November 1, 2026. Before replacing a heat pump, ask us for both prices and check what, if anything, the replacement would earn.
Staying Warm While A Part Is On Order
If a part has to be ordered, the house still needs heat. Turn up the baseboards or the oil furnace in the rooms the heat pump covers, and run a wood stove if you have one. Use portable electric heaters carefully: plug them straight into the wall, keep them clear of curtains and bedding, and do not leave them on in empty rooms. Keep the cupboard doors under sinks on outside walls open on very cold nights so the pipes stay warm. At a cottage with no one there, ask a neighbour to check the place until the heat pump is fixed. We give you a realistic idea of how long the part will take.